Advice, Tips & Tricks
Questions to Ask a Breeder BEFORE you buy -
Here's some general questions we recommend asking a breeder before you buy a puppy...
How long have you been in the breed? What others breeds have you or do you bred?
You probably want to avoid anyone who has "switched" breeds every couple of years, from popular breed to popular breed. Otherwise, look for someone with some experience with the breed you are interested in. If they are new to your breed, do they have experience with a similar breed? Why did they start breeding? Also, be very wary of people who have multiple dog breeds. It is not uncommon to find people breeding more than one kind of dog, but a breeder producing litters of many different breeds of dog is not going to be your best source, and probably should be suspected as a puppy-mill or disreputable breeder.
*Here is our answer to this question- We have been breeding dogs since the 1980's, Started out Breeding and Showing Alaskan Malamutes and then tried Pugs very briefly, but they had too many health issues, so our final choice was Chihuahuas. And we only have Chihuahuas. _____________________________________________________
What kind of congenital defects are present in this breed? What steps are you taking to decrease these defects?
Avoid anyone who says "none", or "not in my dogs!". There are genetic problems that are present in almost every breed. Do some research here, and make sure you know what kind of answer you should be getting from the breeder. A reputable breeder should be able to tell you what kinds of problems might be present in the particular breed (for example, hip , knee, thyroid problems, etc) and what kind of testing is available to find it. It goes without saying that the breeder should be doing those tests on all their breeding stock. Any dogs that are showing signs of any of these problems should not be bred -- avoid anyone who is breeding dogs with genetic problems, or who is not testing their dogs and bitches.
I can't stress enough that you need to have a good idea of what the correct answers are here. Get any good dog book, call the breed club, find out what to expect before you fall in love with that cute puppy face! A breeder that can't tell you what kinds of things affect their dogs isn't going to be breeding to avoid them.
* Our answer to this question- We list all the health issues for this breed on our site and you are given a health guarantee against all of them. We have only owned one dog with any of these health issues and the dog with the conditon was spayed and never bred by us. We have taken in several resuce with several of these health issues and placed them in pet homes after we spay/neutered them or with other rescue workers who would keep them as their own pets. We do health screening with our vets and the OFA. Your dog will have a full vet screening before it is sold to you. _____________________________________________________
Do you have the parents on site? Can I see them?
Note that some breeders will not own both dogs. They will own the mother (and you should be able to see her), but the best match for that bitch may belong to someone else. However, you should be able to see the mother and any other dogs on site when you visit. If the breeder hesitates, you should wonder why - are the dogs kept in clean, healthy conditions? are they too aggressive to let loose? You should be very comfortable with any reason they give for you not to see the dogs.
Even if the parents are nippers or protective they can still be shown to you. Ask that the breeder restrain them or place them in an enclosed but exposed area for viewing.
However, remember that some breeders limit interacting with very young puppies, and you might be prevented from seeing puppies that are less than 4 weeks old. This is ok, and is simply the breeder trying to eliminate any chance of illness in the puppies - they don't know what kind of dog diseases you may be carrying, and don't want the litter to get sick.
*Our answer to this question is- We always have the dams on sight and we rarely use outside stud service so your sire is most likely here as well. If he is not you will be provided with the owners name and phone to verify we bred and that the stud owner knows we are selling puppies claiming to be sired by one of their stud. And you can always see all dogs here in person. We don't hide dogs, we don't kennel outside our home and show dogs elsewhere. And we never say stay outside or we'll meet you somewhere to show you the puppies. ________________________________________________________
What are the good and bad points of the parents?
Usually, breeders will start to gush at this point and enumerate all the wonderful qualities of their dogs - and the best I've talked to also will point out their flaws. What you're looking for here is temperament, possible aggression, how they deal with people, how they're not "perfect". Many breeders compete in obedience as well, and will have Companion Dog (CD) or other obedience titles for the parents. Often, this is a good benchmark for temperament and behavior.
*Our answer to this question is- It depends on which dog your asking about, take Sunny for instance, he is too tall, his legs are too long and his top line is not very nice, but we bred him to bitches who correct this in thier offspring. Call me and ask about the dog your interested in and I'll tell you the good and bad. Also We do show our dogs however we do not handle, we send dogs out for showing. We have tried agility but we have not worked in obediance as of yet.
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Can you explain the puppy's pedigree?
A good breeder should be able to tell you something about dogs on your puppy's pedigree. Have them explain the often cryptic letters and titles awarded, and get a good feel that they know the lines they are breeding from. At the very least, they should be able to provide you with a 4 generation pedigree and be able to tell you about the dogs. You might see the same dogs listed a few times on the pedigree - the breeder should be able to point out any and explain the benefits and dangers of both.Ask how line breeding differs from inbreeding if the breeder can't tell you...find another breeder.
*Our answer to this question is- We can explain a pedigree and where the ancestors came from. I am still learning the good and bad of line breeding however. And we have not done any work in that area. We are still learning all the lines ourselves.
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Where were the puppies raised? How have you socialized them?
What you're looking for here is an indication of what kind of socialization the puppies have had. Ideally, you want the breeder to have raised the puppies in the house, around the normal daily activities of a household so they are used to the noises and activity of humans. Someone who says "in the garage" or "in the kennels" can also have well socialized puppies, but you need to be more careful. Ask yourself, Have they spent enough time with the puppies? Socialization is so important to getting a well-adjusted, well-mannered dog. Puppies should have been exposed to people, other dogs, new situations, normal household sounds and activities in order to learn. A puppy raised without this important social interaction can be shy, fearful, aggressive, or have other problems as they get older. Dogs need to know how to play, how to handle new situations, how to relate to people.
*Our answer to this question is- All the dogs are in our house, running around almost all day long, we crate if we must leave the house with noone home, and we crate at night. We also crate when people visit but you can see all the dogs, we have to or you'd be overwhelmed with jumping & barking dogs. All crates are in our family room. Puppies are kept out with everyone else from 4 weeks old and on. They are kept in isolation until they are old enough to get away from the older dogs, we do have a pack here and they think nothing of running right over puppies in their race around the house. The litters have run of the house most of the day and are crated at night.
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How many litters do you have a year?
Breeders producing more than 1 litter a year per bitch are probably not paying enough attention to the genetics and health of the puppies. If it is a small breeder, even two females breeding a year may be too much to be able to make sure that the breeding is going to be successful and produce healthy puppies. Definitely avoid anyone who "always has puppies", or who is breeding their bitch every heat. If someone has litters they claim were UNEXPECTED they are certainly not planning these puppies! All puppies should be "expected" and well planned. If they're not, it's a crap shoot as to whether you're going to get a good puppy or a nightmare.
*Our answer to this question is- We breed females only once a year, and have between 2 and 6 litters total. We had 4 litters in 2005, 4 litters in 2006, and 5 in 2007 . We might have 6 to 8 females owned by us at any given time but not all would be breeding, some are too old, some are too young, some may be with handlers for showing.
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What guarantees do you give with this puppy?
At the very least, the breeder should guarantee the puppy against any debilitating genetic problems, and insure that the puppy is in good health. A breeder should be prepared to take any dog back for any reason - part of being an ethical breeder is making sure that the puppies have a good home and that it stays that way. At the very minimum, a good breeder will produce vet records on their puppies, not only showing what shots they have had, but that they have gone through a physical exam by the vet and been checked out as healthy and free of hernia's, etc.
*Our answer to this question is- We always offer a 10 day viral and we have a lifetime health guarantee on all dogs. You will have to email me for a copy of the guarantee it's 8 pages long and I'm just not posting it here.
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When can I take the puppy home?
Puppies usually go home between 6 and 12 weeks. Avoid anyone sending puppies under 6 weeks old home.
*Our answer to this question is- We let puppies go at 9 wks of age, with two vaccines if the vet certifies goo health. We do offer to keep pups until 12 wks of age and then they go home with ALL vaccines.
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Is this particular breed good with children/other pets/etc?
This is where you (hopefully) have already done your own research and know the pro's/con's of the breed you're interested in. As an example, if you're looking at purchasing a Mastiff and the breeder tells you that they're excellent with infants and small children, you'll know that something's up - Neo's are VERY LARGE and clumsy when they're young and not exactly a great match for small children.
*Our answer to this question is- NO.....yes we do have kids but our kids were taught very early in life never to bother any dogs and if they got bit we told them TOO BAD, stay away from the dogs.
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Ask what are the breed traits to worry about?
The answer will be differant with everyone you ask but I will tell you two that the breeder should tell you and if they don't theres a problem.
*Our answer to this question is- First Chihuahuas are one of the worst breeds for housebreaking. and Second- Most Chihuahuas do grown up to be barkers and about 80 percent are in some way stranger unfriendly, mostly in their own homes.
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Also-if your buying a puppy online demand this-
Tell the breeder you wish to pay with a card and have them set up a account that you may pay by credit card with,this insures your purchase your credit card company and if someone does try to rip you off, the credit card company will theft and fraud charges for you.If they refuse to set up for you and will not take your credit card,only pay IN CASH-IN PERSON....never give anyone money until you have the dog in your hands.
*Our answer to this is- We do sell dogs online and in our home. Cash in person or Paypal Online only.
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This list is by no means a complete list, but just a general start that will hopefully make a potential purchase a little safer and less stressful. By the same token, the breeder should be asking you, the buyer, lots of questions about your situation and environment. If all they're interested in is how you're going to pay and when, that's not a good sign. They should really want to get to know you and your situation in order to place an appropriate puppy with you.
VACCINES
I always use Vanguard 5/CV for all MY Chi's, puppies get their first shot at 8 weeks then again at 12 weeks and finally 16 weeks of age. Dogs coming into rescue over a year of age just get the one shot and then a yearly booster.
(Puppies going to new owners are given shots at 6 and 8 wks because your vet may have the old standard vac schedual.)
***NEVER use a vaccine with Lepto on any Toy breed dog***
WORMER
Pups under 8 weeks of age, we use Strongid-C or T (must be gotten through vet). Puppies over 8 weeks and adult dogs we worm with Safeguard wormer, it treats for 4 kinds of worms and is mixed into food for a 3 day treatment once every 6 months.
BATHING
We use 8in1 Puppy shampoo (can be bought at Walmart) on all dogs. You can also use Suave Baby shampoo. Unless your dog has some kind of skin or coat condition, which may need to be diagnosed by a vet and treated.
FLEAS
(We use Zodiac Quick Kill, it is a flea,tick,lice and mite killer, I get it at Pet Supplies Plus. It makes several gallons of treatment and can be used on furniture and carpets as well as on the animal itself.)
(Knock wood- we're 4 years flea free here and that's with taking in rescue dogs) But here's how I do it,
I never transport a dog unless it is in a crate, once we get home I take the dog right to the bathroom and put it into the tub.(never letting it run or even touch the floor until it's been bathed). THE BATH-(first grab a jar of Vasoline and put a blob on your fingers, open your dogs eye and smear it over the entire eyeball-both of them, this won't hurt the dog and will keep soap from getting into the eye).I totally wash the dog usually twice, making sure to scrub very well and in every nook and cranny. I towel dry the dog with it still in the tub, then I pour on my flea rinse, soaking the dog. I also use this same rinse pouring it into the ears as it treats ear mites as well. Then I towel blot the dog and it is crated until dry.
MORE TO COME (as I think of it...lol)
For Breeders and Buyers-
Hi we have made this list of things you may or may not know or may or may not need to know. Hope this is helpful.
1. If you are buying a puppy/dog from ANYONE and I do mean ANYONE....get The registration papers at the time of sale...NEVER Wait to get the papers for any reason...ALL Breeders who's litters can be registered can do so in lots of time to get the registrations back before the pups are ready for sale and all dogs already registered have a registration on hand...if The owner says they never got the papers and are waiting for papers...do NOT buy the dog/puppy....RUN RUN RUN do NOT hand over money RUN RUN RUN.
2. Never buy a dog because you have showed up at a kennel or home and the puppies/dogs for sale look sad/sick/live in filth...ect.
You are buying damaged goods....you WILL have vet bills piling up before the dog/puppy knows its name....you might be buying a dog/puppy who dies within 72 hours...You would not buy food at a store that showed visible signs of ROT or medications that showed clear signs of being tampered with....DON'T Fall for it with a living creature either.
If you believe the dog/puppy you have just seen is in danger..Go right to the local police dept and report the conditions and person selling the animals.
3. When breeding a dog or bitch...Always have a written contract, it is in your best interest to follow these guildlines even if your breeding with your very own family members animal...never trust ANYONE not even your own mother in this case...
part one- if you own the bitch being bred...pay up front at time of breeding, ask to see the studs registration to prove the dog is registered and to whom you are dealing with and get a signed litter registration at the same time. Do not let the stud owner tell you they can not sign the paper until the litter is born.
part two- if you are the stud owner...don't take a puppy back, get your stud fee up front and then go buy yourself a new puppy/dog none related to your stud if you really want a new puppy. Once your stud fee is given to you sign the litter reg. you will get a letter from the AKC telling you all litter info when the bitch owner registers the litter.
Your contract should state if only 1 pup is born or no birth occurs there will be one free breeding within 1 yr. If the bitch owner claims only one pup or no litter ask to have the signed litter registration returned to you. If it is one pup you then make sure all info on the litter form is correct and only one dog is being registered and see registration is sealed and sent, I drive with the person to the nearest Big Blue Mail Box, the kind you can't get back into once the letter is put inside....if none there is no reason for the bitch owner not to give you back your litter registration form. If these conditions are not met do not give second breeding.
4. If you are a breeder it is up to you to uphold good breeding standards...at the very least your puppies should leave you...No earlier then 8 wks old, should have 2 vaccines, should be parasite free, should be clean and well fed and should have been socialized.
I know it's scarey sometimes selling your babies, we all want our babies to go to wonderful loving LIFETIME homes and there's always the worry that someone has or could rip you off in some way as well. I'm sure at one time or another you have heard the story that goes...I sold them a puppy they called me a week later and said the dog died, and they wanted their money back...I guard against that with one simple line in my guarantee....ALL requests for full refunds due to death of said animal, must be accompanied with the deceased animals body.
I do not accept a vet letter, I do not accept a picture, I do not accept their priests word. I want to see this for myself...no it's not a pretty thing to have to do, but if your ever the breeder having this scam run on you, you will be kicking yourself that you did not listen to me.
Coccidia (Coccidiosis)
by Race Foster, DVM and Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
What is coccidia?
Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that multiply in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats, most commonly in kittens and puppies less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g., change in ownership, other disease present).
In cats and dogs, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I. ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs; I. felis and I. rivolta are the most common in cats. Regardless of which species is present we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy or kitten ages it tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult it may carry coccidia in its intestines, shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects.
How is coccidia transmitted?
The puppy or kitten is not born with the coccidia organisms in its intestine. However, once born, the puppy or kitten is frequently exposed to its mother's feces and if the mother is shedding the infective cysts in her feces then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within their intestines. Since young puppies and kittens, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal's intestines. Oftentimes this has severe effects.
From exposure to the coccidia in feces to the onset of the illness is about 13 days. Most puppies and kittens who are ill from coccidia are, therefore, two weeks of age and older. Although most infections are the result of spread from the mother, this is not always the case. Any infected kitten or puppy is contagious to other puppies and kittens. In breeding facilities, shelters, animal hospitals, etc., it is wise to isolate those infected from those that are not.
What are the symptoms of coccidiosis?
The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated, and in some instances, die from the disease.
Most infected kittens and puppies encountered by the authors are in the four to twelve week age group. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis.
What are the risks?
Although many cases are mild it is not uncommon to see severe, bloody diarrhea result in dehydration and even death. This is most common in animals who are ill or infected with other parasites, bacteria or viruses. Coccidiosis is very contagious, especially among young kittens and puppies. Entire kennels and catteries may become contaminated with puppies and kittens of many age groups simultaneously affected.
What is the treatment of coccidiosis?
It should be mentioned that stress plays a role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy or kitten to arrive at its new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. If the puppy or kitten has been at the new home for less than thirteen days then it had coccidia before it arrived. Remember the incubation period (from exposure to illness) is about thirteen days. If the puppy or kitten has been with its new owner several weeks, then the exposure to coccidia most likely occurred after the animal arrived at the new home. The authors merely point this out as they have been involved in legal cases as to who was responsible for the cost of treatment, the breeder or new owner. Usually coccidia was present only to surface during the stressful period of the puppy or kitten adjusting to a new home.
Fortunately coccidiosis is treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon), trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen) and amprolium (Corid) have all been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy's own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of five or more days are usually required.
How is coccidiosis prevented or controlled?
Because coccidia is spread by the feces of carrier animals, it is very important to practice strict sanitation. All fecal material should be removed. Housing needs to be such that food and water cannot become contaminated with feces. Clean water should be provided at all times. Most disinfectants do not work well against coccidia; incineration of the feces, and steam cleaning, immersion in boiling water or a 10% ammonia solution are the best methods to kill coccidia. Coccidia can withstand freezing.
Cockroaches and flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. Mice and other animals can ingest the coccidia and when killed and eaten by a cat, for instance, can infect the cat. Therefore, insect and rodent control are very important in preventing coccidiosis.
The coccidia species of dogs and birds do not infect humans.
Hydrocephalus
Race Foster, DVM and Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Hydrocephalus can occur as a congenital condition as well as a result of trauma or a brain tumor, for instance. Hydrocephalus is a condition in which excessive fluid is found within and around the brain. The body may form too much fluid or, as occurs in most cases, the fluid that is produced cannot drain from the central nervous system as it normally does. Within the brain are fluid-filled spaces called ventricles. In a hydrocephalic dog, the ventricles fill with too much fluid. They become swollen, and the increased pressure damages and/or prevents development of brain tissue. Toy breeds such as Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pomeranians and Chihuahuas are commonly affected. Hydrocephalus occurs in other breeds as well.
What are the symptoms?
Typically, hydrocephalus is first diagnosed when the dog is young, usually less than four months of age. The head takes on a dome-shaped appearance and the skull bones at the top of the head fail to close. A soft spot may be noticed on the top of the head. This is termed an 'open fontanel.' The affected dog may be blind, have seizures or have an altered gait. Hydrocephalic dogs are commonly mentally dull and have a limited ability to learn. Different levels of severity exist.
What are the risks?
The hydrocephalic dog typically has a very limited life span. Severity differs, but few dogs with this condition live to be over two years of age.
What is the management?
Most cases go untreated. Veterinary neurologists can be consulted and occasionally the excess fluid can be drained. Sometimes lifelong treatment with prednisone and Lasix is tried. With surgery or medical treatment, however, the dog will rarely live a normal life. Treatment is often unsuccessful and expensive. Hydrocephalus is a congenital disease and dogs with this condition should be removed from any breeding program.
Puppy Hypoglycemia: Low Blood Sugar
Race Foster, DVM and Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Hypoglycemia simply means a low blood sugar. Glucose is the form of sugar found within the bloodstream.
Glucose is formed during the digestion of foods and it can be stored within the liver in a storage form called
glycogen. Most instances of low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) in the puppy are the result of inadequate nutrition;
either not enough or poor quality (undigestible) food. Excessive exercise may also cause the body to use up
more sugar than is available.
What are the symptoms?
A puppy with hypoglycemia will lack energy. Glucose (sugar) is the fuel the body burns for energy; without it
the puppy is listless. In severe instances the puppy may even seizure since glucose is necessary for the brain
tissue and muscles to function. These hypoglycemic episodes will cause the puppy to fall over and appear
weak or comatose.
What are the risks?
The risks depend on the severity or extent of the lack of blood sugar. If it is due to lack of food or excessive
exercise it can be easily corrected. If however, the underlying cause is more serious, such as liver disease
preventing the storage of glucose as glycogen, or intestinal disease preventing the proper digestion and/or
absorption of food, then hypoglycemia may be chronic and life threatening.
What is the management?
If a puppy is listless due to low blood sugar it is imperative to immediately provide sugar. Karo syrup and honey are excellent sugar sources and should be fed to the puppy. If the puppy fails to respond to sugar, or the hypoglycemic episodes are frequent, then a thorough exam by a veterinarian is in order. It must be determined if the low blood sugar is simply the result of inadequate nutrition or a more severe underlying disease.